Preparing the neck-block

An efficient, accurate method for the earlier parts of neck carving, before working on the scroll

If you want to work efficiently in violin making, it is inevitable that you will at some point think about the individual work processes. Does a step make sense at a certain point in the process?

What is the function of the part in the overall concept? Which is more important: the function or the decoration? How can I achieve the desired result of a particular step in the making process as quickly and safely as possible?

These questions have occupied me for 25 years, during which I have worked almost exclusively and intensively on the manufacturing of new violins, violas and cellos. I learnt many of my working processes in my father’s workshop and have refined some of them. I have now carried out the method of neck preparation described here on around 400 scrolls. Perhaps it will inspire some of you to try it.

1a Preparation of the neck-block

1 First I measure the overall length of the neck-block and cut it off with a bandsaw, so I have no unnecessarily large areas to deal with. I work on the fingerboard gluing surface first: I place it on one growth ring and plane the surface flat.

Then I plane one side at a right angle. This surface should be at least wide enough to accommodate the ear of the scroll. I then saw my ear width plus 0.5mm on the bandsaw and plane the sawn surface to the exact ear width (1a). After this, the outline of the neck and scroll can be drawn on the side (1b).

1b The outline is drawn out

ALL PHOTOS KATHARINA NEUMÜLLER

I draw the template on the narrower side, because the wider of the two sides will rest on the bandsaw table for the sawing. The positions of the pegholes are already marked on the template, and can be transferred and punched at the same time.

Sawing out the scroll profile

Drilling the pegholes

2 I always cut the profile of the neck and scroll on the bandsaw. It automatically gives me a right angle and I don’t have to do much reworking. You should make sure that you always apply pressure to the locating surface with your hand, so that the workpiece does not tilt. If there is very little locating surface, or if you are inexperienced, it is advisable to make a wedge and attach it to the neck-block. This will keep the block in place and you can concentrate on sawing.

3 I then drill the pegholes with a pillar drill. To get a neat hole I drill slowly and use a sharp 6mm drill bit with a pre-cutter and centre point. This means I can use the reamer later with ease, and I don’t have to ream as much. It also allows me to take full advantage of right-angled pegholes and I don’t run the risk of getting the pegs in at the wrong angle.

4a Using the disc sander

4b Halfway done

4 My two sanding machines (disc sander and spindle sander) make my work much easier. Before using them, I always check that the work surface is at a right angle to the sander. Then I can quickly and accurately shape the contours of the scroll. I only press the workpiece lightly against the machine to smooth the surface, having already contoured the outline using the template.

This operation can be done efficiently and very accurately with machines. I can save a lot of time compared to working by hand.

4c Using the spindle sander

Pre-drilling the pegbox

5a Front view of the neck and pegbox

5b And the view from below

5 Next I sketch the complete front view. To do this, I mark a centre line, which I also centre-punch in several places so that I can reconstruct it at any time, even if the mark disappears during the working process. On the neck, I use my desired fingerboard dimensions with an additional 0.5mm, and I also draw the pegbox with my measurements. This includes the wall thickness. On the neck root, I use the button width plus 2mm as the lower measurement. (The button starts higher up and is narrower owing to the tapered neck root).

6 After drawing it, I pre-drill the pegbox. I have a support with a side fence for this. I clamp this fence to the support of the pillar drill so that the tip of the drill is exactly on the centre line of the pegbox. I then set the depth fence on the drill to 6mm above my scroll rest. This will leave enough material at the bottom of the pegbox to cut the fillet later. Now I drill one hole next to the other, creating a solid base for finishing the pegbox.

The advantage of doing this before the sides have been cut is that I can work with side fences. This simplifies the operation and makes it much safer.

Processing the pegbox

8a Sawing off the sides

8b A template set at the correct angle guides the saw

8c The sides are completely sawn away

7 Now I chisel out the pegbox. I can easily clamp the neck in a vice and work with precision and strength.

I do this step before carving the scroll because, as mentioned above, I can clamp the workpiece properly and work more accurately. But I also start by working on the actual function of the violin neck, which is to hold the pegs! This prevents me from damaging the intricately carved scroll when I move on to rougher work. Also, there is always the possibility of hidden flaws in the wood. Even then, it is an advantage not to have already invested hours of work.

8 I now remove all the material that is no longer needed. To saw the neck root at the correct angle (plus a little allowance), I have a template that is set at the correct angle. There is a cut-out where the saw blade will go. For the other side of the neck root, I turn the board round. Two strong magnets are embedded in the base to prevent it from slipping when the workpiece is pushed through the saw.

I only saw the foot of the neck with the slanted template. All the other cuts are straight again, without using a template.

9 As a final step before I start carving the scroll, I pre-shape the neck slightly. This makes it more comfortable to hold. The back of the pegbox can already be shaped quite accurately. Material will be removed from the neck root later, when the neck is fitted and before I glue it.

Now the scroll and neck are well prepared. Have fun carving the scroll!

TRANSLATION BY ELIZABETH WILLIS